Le lighter de ma Tante

Cliftonville in 1968. 

Not skiing in the Alps; not being a Bedouin living in the Sahara for a week; not visiting Washington DC.  Two generations later and it seems the school trip is slightly more exotic than it was when I was eleven!

A boarding house (do these things exist anymore?) just outside Margate was our final primary school year’s school journey.  It was so bleak and the food inedibly awful, it could have been an SAS training school for eleven-year-olds.

If Grand Designs had have been on in 1968, Kevin McCloud would have suggested getting Fred Dibnah in – pronto.

Many of us had rarely ventured outside of SW17, let alone visited Kent.  It might well have been Mars, such was our disbelief of it being so far away.  It didn’t take us long up Balham High Street to see who’d not taken their Kwells.

At secondary school the trips weren’t much better.  The day trip to Boulogne and Dunkirk were arranged ostensibly to hone our French speaking skills.  We did learn ou est les flick knives? and Combien this lighter that was possibly once a flame thrower?

No wonder Elon Musk is so keen to get to Mars – he’s probably had to stay a week in Cliftonville.

The last straw donkey

If you’ve returned from your summer holiday, have you brought back a large sombrero or a bottle of wine in a wicker casket, as if you haven’t got enough flammable objects in your house?

What different experiences we have now than when I was growing up in the ‘60s and ‘70s.

We no longer send postcards; a text will tell people you are having a lovely time and you wished they were there – which is a lie, otherwise you’d have invited them. 

We don’t paddle anymore; we go on courses to learn how to scuba dive for weeks on end.

The places we travel to these days you are unlikely to pick up the local fudge, biscuits, or tin of clotted cream; rock tends to be what the houses are built into rather than something peppermint which can remove fillings.

The desire to bring back a straw donkey soon after regular holidays to Spain started always confused me.   You have your hands full enough with luggage; small people and 200 Senior Service, so why on earth do you decide to carry something on the plane which is almost as big as yourself?

Retsina’s off, love.

Links fahren

These days HR means you’ve said something you should not have.  In the ‘60s HR meant Holiday Route and it helped guide you (in pre-Sat Nav days) to your holiday destination (along with the rest of the motoring world).

The alternative was to have a set of maps bigger than the interior of the car.

HR meant sand, sea, serial traffic jams.  But, upon seeing those yellow and black signs en route to your holiday, you could smell the brine of the sea – either that or the leftover salmon paste sandwiches you’d eaten before you were the other side of the South Circular.

And all this after being woken up at 3.00 am (“to beat the rush”). 

The slow procession of Cortinas, Populars and Zodiacs made their way for the annual trip to the seaside.  You, dear reader, sat in the back seat with your I-Spy on the Road book; packet of Joyrides and trying hard to master the rules of pub cricket and wondering why we had to, yet again, go somewhere which began with a “B” and not do a road trip through Yugoslavia?

When you arrived you wondered if you’d see the family you met last year from Scarborough?  Of course not, they were halfway to Belgrade!  

Ferry, across the Solent

I was nine when I went on my first boat (I don’t count the Water Chute at Battersea Funfair).

The trip was the ferry to the Isle of Wight – I’d been given the I-Spy Book of High Security Prisons beforehand to occupy me.

At Portsmouth, I looked out thinking I could be the next Christoper Columbus – although hopefully travelling directly to Ryde, rather than confusing Jamaica with the coast of India.

I’d seen The Cruel Sea on TV and was fully prepared to encounter U-Boats.  The man helping behind the ferry shop looked a bit like Karl Döntiz, so I felt quite safe.

Because this was my first trip away from mainland England, I was anticipating seeing different flora and fauna on the Island.  Aside from different coloured sand at Alum Bay, not seeing any giant tortoises, Yeti or sabre-toothed tigers (I also had the I-Spy Book of Extinct Animals) was an anti-climax.  Although, the hotel food was prehistoric.

On the return trip I realised a life at sea was probably not for me – unless I was sponsored by Kwells.  So, imagine my horror, when stepping off the ferry back at Portsmouth, there was a press gang there.  Hello, sailor.

Dad, what’s a tumulus?

Are we nearly there yet?  The plaintive cry I’m sure we’ve all heard (and probably said). 

With modern-day sat-navs the answer to this can be given to the precise nano-second; when you had a series of Esso road maps, a compass which was originally in the heel of your shoe and an old London A-Z, those ETA predictions became harder to determine.

We struggled whenever we drove anywhere outside of Balham High Street – our A-Z was so old it only had Watling Street and Offa’s Dyke marked on the pages – if friends or relatives lived in Roman villas we’d get there, otherwise it was very hit and miss.

Travelling abroad was trickier – the countries were physically bigger; so, it seemed, were the road maps.  

It’s tricky enough going round the Paris Périphérique, let alone trying to navigate it with a map larger than the windscreen in front of you flanked by irate Parisians.  It’s no fun playing pub cricket driving through the Loire Valley either.

I thought, having begun to study map-reading preparing for Geography O-level, that I’d could be more useful.  However, driving from Balham to Dawlish (not quite Paris to Dakar), my dad needed to know how to get to the A303; me pointing out, using my school Ordnance Survey map, slag heaps, narrow gauge railways and coppices, added several days to our journey.

Are we nearly there yet?  No, but I think we’re near an area with non-coniferous trees.  Handy for logs, but not if you want a cream tea. 

A tea towel is not just for washing up

Whenever I’m doing the washing up, I’m immediately transported back to Shanklin.

My family were obsessed, regardless of the quality of the holiday, to buy a tea towel denoting the resort they had visited.  

Not for them bringing me back a bottle of wine; a straw donkey or a stick of rock – I got a tea towel. 

For me, who didn’t do a lot of washing up as a kid in our Balham flat, it was only useful if I wanted to look like a member of the PLO.  Although, I’m quite sure Yasser Arafat didn’t wear a head-dress with tourist attractions of Ventnor plastered all over it.

People would come round for dinner with my parents and would help with the washing up.  They’d spot my mum’s tea towel she’d brought back from a holiday in the Balearic Islands in 1968. 

“How was Majorca?”

“Didn’t see much of it, I had gastro-enteritis the entire fortnight”. 

Still, good to feel nauseous every time you picked up a tea towel with a map of Alcudia on it.

Visiting National Trust places were the same:  it would have been great to have received a bar of Kendal Mint Cake or some fudge, with the stately home emblazoned on the wrapper. No, I’d get a tea towel of Polesden Lacey.  

I didn’t really want a tea towel from Cliveden, either, I’d have preferred Mandy Rice-Davies to come round and help me with my biology homework. 

Well, I would do, wouldn’t I?

The candy floss man can

Carrying on with my holiday theme, and before we all go back to our chimney sweeping jobs in September, I’ve been reminded of the singularly unhealthy foods we’d have all eaten on holiday.

I think, looking back, that the stall holders must have been in league with (in my experience) all south London dentists.  

I’m talking initially about ‘rock’.   

Only a struggling dentist could have thought this confection up.   A mint-flavoured sweet and 99% guaranteed to break a tooth or at least loosen a filling.  The type I would buy, if you cut it two, would have ‘root canal treatment’ running through the middle.

Also, candy floss – more addictive than crack cocaine, but slightly more sticky and certainly enough ingredients to make you even more susceptible to gingivitis.  The best bit for me was watching being made – a bit like seeing how a spider spins its web using a time-lapse camera.  Actually, I lied, the best bit was eating it and still having most of it round your face several hours later.

But the one thing we eat in the open, only during our holidays, is fish and chips.  But if you’d have known the seagulls were going to have such an absence of fear, you’d have bought two portions!

So, tooth decay, diabetes and high cholesterol – highlights from summer holidays gone by – and that’s before you’ve bought the mandatory postcards.  

Are we nearly at the pub which sells Double Diamond yet? 

Pier group pressure

I’ve been lucky and for many years I’ve holidayed abroad, the past few years, however, have been spent in this country.

It was 1968, as an eleven-year-old, when I travelled abroad for the first time, taking that famous 18th European travellers’journey from Balham to the Balearics.  

But since the last time I was in the UK for a holiday, I noticed many of the things were no longer there.

Try as I might, I could not find a single knobbly knee, glamourous grandad or best pub singer competition to enter (I was never going try out in a beauty contest – I haven’t got the legs).

Many of the piers, in existence in the early ‘60s, had either caught fire, hit by the storm in 1987 or had sunk.

There were restrictions should have wanted to see an “end of the pier” show – many of the venues required you to bring either your own snorkel, wind-cheater or extinguisher.  And if you have a full deep-sea diver’s kit on, then it really would be a slow stroll down the promenade.

This year, the only show on offer was “The Little Mermaid”, but you had to produce a swimming certificate to gain entrance. It was worth it, as Jacques Cousteau was playing Ariel. Red Adair was the prompt.

I was quite skint but fruitlessly scoured the beaches with my Daily Mirror looking for Chalky White to claim my £5.

The weather was good, especially if you were either a duck or trying to improve your Gene Kelly impression.